Tag: The Old Foodie

Zucchini Frittata: Baked or Fried?

I was surprised when a friend mentioned baking a zucchini frittata using a recipe from Ottolenghi’s Simple. Intrigued, I pulled out my copy of the cookbook to investigate. Could Ottolenghi, with his Italian heritage, have baked a frittata? (I’m joking, of course—I deeply admire his work!) But honestly, if I were to bake a mixture of zucchini and eggs, I’d simply call it a zucchini bake.

In Italian, frittata stems from fritta, meaning fried. Similarly, fritto (masculine) as in fritto misto translates to “mixed fried food.” But enough Italian grammar—this post is about the frittata, not linguistics.

Frittata Talk with Maria Liberati

Recently, I had the pleasure of being interviewed by Maria Liberati for her podcast. From my Covid state-wide lockdown in Melbourne, I connected with Maria in Pennsylvania to discuss the humble yet versatile frittata. She came across an old post of mine, An Authentic Frittata, which I wrote for Janet Clarkson’s popular blog, The Old Foodie (back in December 2008). I’d nearly forgotten about it, but my thoughts on frittate (plural) remain the same.

We touched on Claudia Roden, a culinary hero of mine, though I disagree with her claim that frittate are uncommon in Sicily and Sardinia. In my experience, frittate are simple, everyday dishes found throughout Italy, though often so ordinary they don’t always make it into cookbooks. Also in Sicilian a frittata is called a Millassata. Could this be why Roden found so few references of recipes from Sicily?

The Art (and Simplicity) of Making a Frittata

In that The Old Foodie (back in December 2008) post, I began with:
“Every national cuisine has certain rules and customs.”
Baking a frittata in Italy, however, is not one of them.

But I understand why frying might seem intimidating. A classic frittata—like the zucchini and pecorino one I made recently—is cooked on the stovetop, flipped carefully, and finished on the other side. It’s not as scary as it sounds!

Here’s how I do it:

Sauté zucchini in extra virgin olive oil with garlic and parsley until just tender.

Beat eggs with a fork, add salt, pepper, and grated pecorino cheese, then mix in the zucchini.

Pour the mixture into a hot, oiled pan.

Use a spatula to gently press the top and lift the edges, allowing uncooked egg to flow underneath.

Cover the pan with a plate, flip the pan over.

Once set, invert the frittata onto a plate and slide it back into the pan to cook the other side.

For beginners, I recommend starting with a smaller pan and fewer eggs (six to eight max). A round pan works best for even cooking, and keeping the frittata manageable in size makes flipping much easier.

Regional Variations: North vs. South

Maria and I agreed that Italian cooking is highly regional, and this applies to frittate. Having grown up in Trieste with Sicilian roots, I’ve seen these differences firsthand.

Cuisine is localised, each region has prepared specialities based on their produce and cultural influences.

Trieste was a very important port  for much of that north eastern part of Italy that  were part of the Austro – Hungarian Empire. Surrounding countries that influenced the history and culture were Austria, Switzerland, France, Germany, and Croatia is not too far away.

Sicily was an important trade route in a strategic location in the Mediterranean and was settled by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Carthaginians,  Arabs, Normans, French, Spaniards.

Fats: Butter or butter-oil blends in the north; olive oil in the south.

Ingredients: Northern frittate might feature prosciutto, cheese, or even apples, while southern versions lean heavily on vegetables like zucchini or ricotta.

Binders: Breadcrumbs are common in the south to absorb vegetable moisture; northern recipes sometimes add flour or milk.

Cheeses: Parmigiano in the north; pecorino, caciocavallo, or ricotta salata in the south.

Tradition Meets Experimentation

Cooking evolves, and while I respect traditional recipes, I’m open to thoughtful experimentation. For instance, my mother often overcooked vegetables, finding my sautéed ones too al dente. Yet, we can adapt traditional methods to suit modern tastes, like using Australian Warrigal greens in place of spinach. It’s about honoring tradition while embracing innovation.

This spring, I’m inspired by new produce—artichokes, zucchini flowers, spring peas—for my next frittate. Below is one I made with wild asparagus, a simple yet satisfying celebration of the season.

Thank you, Maria, for the opportunity to discuss such a delightful topic! For more on my frittata adventures, check out the links below or listen to our conversation on The Maria Liberati Show.

Below a photo of Warrigal greens.

Below is a frittata I cooked with wild asparagus.

Some links:

Recipes on my blog for making Frittata:

ASPARAGI DI BOSCO and FRITTATINA (Wild Asparagus continued, and Frittata)

WILD ASPARAGUS IN SICILY AND TUNIS (ASPARAGI SELVATICI)

BOOK SIGNING OF SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING AT READINGS (and Fennel Frittata)

FRITTATA: SAUSAGE and RICOTTA

SPRING PICNIC; Frittata with artichokes and asparagus

The Maria Liberati Show