AUTUMN FRUIT and baked quinces

Autumn Fruit in Victoria offers a stunning variety of fruit, characterised by its vibrant colours, enticing fragrances and rich flavours.

This week, my basket included quinces: golden, firm and wonderfully aromatic.

Last week’s haul was just as tempting — figs and persimmons, two of my favourite autumn fruits.

The figs were luscious and sweet, perfect eaten fresh or cooked in countless ways.

 

A few weeks earlier, prickly pears were still around too, marking the slow transition from summer to autumn.

Prickly pears

A Week of Unexpected Gifts

One friend dropped off a bag of pomegranates, and the next day another neighbour left a surprise on my doorstep — a bag filled with feijoas (the small, egg-shaped green fruit) and strawberry guavas, those deep-magenta gems that smell of strawberries and roses.

All things considered, it was not a bad week for autumn fruit.

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Strawberry guavas

The Joy of Simple Fruit

Pomegranates are now well established in Australia. Their ruby-red seeds can be eaten fresh, scattered over savoury dishes, or used in desserts.

Persimmons are equally versatile — both the crisp vanilla variety and the soft, custardy ones — but like pomegranates, I often prefer them simply sliced and enjoyed raw.

The attraction of Quinces

Quinces, on the other hand, need to be cooked to reveal their true magic. Though I must admit, I always nibble a piece of raw quince while cutting them. Their transformation from pale yellow to a deep rosy colour is one of autumn’s quiet pleasures.

In Australia quince paste (cotognata) has become familiar and some make quince jelly, but I prefer making baked quinces.

Every batch is different because I rarely follow a strict recipe — I take inspiration and then do my own thing.

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My Way of Baking Quinces

Some elements are essential:

  • Sweetener – sugar, honey, or leftover bits of jam or jelly from the pantry.
  • Acid – wine, orange juice, lemon, or lime.
  • A splash of something alcoholic – perhaps a half-finished bottle of liqueur, spirit, or aperitivo.
  • Fragrance – cinnamon, star anise, cloves, mace, bay leaves, black peppercorns, or fennel seeds.

For this latest batch, I used water, white wine, feijoa jelly (a gift from a friend), cinnamon, star anise, cloves, lemon slices, and bay leaves.

Scrub the quinces well, quarter them, and leave everything in — skin, seeds, and membranes. These help the syrup turn beautifully jelly-like. The liquid should reach halfway up the fruit.

Bake covered with foil at 170°C for about two hours, removing the foil for the last 15 minutes.

The result? Jewelled, tender fruit in a fragrant syrup that perfumes the kitchen for days.

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Fresh quinces ready for baking

The result? Rich coloured, tender fruit in a fragrant syrup that perfumes the kitchen for days.

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More recipes for Quinces:

A Tale about QUINCES

AUTUMN FRUIT Cumquats (Kumquats) and Quinces

MOSTARDA and COTOGNATA – Sweets in Moulds

PRICKLY PEARS Fichi d’India and a paste called Mostarda

MOSTARDA and COTOGNATA – Sweets in Moulds (Formelle)

In Sicily, mostarda and cotognata are fruit pastes shaped into ceramic moulds called formelle.

During my childhood in Trieste, at a specific time of the year, my father and I would visit the railway station to collect a parcel sent by relatives in Ragusa, Sicily. The parcel contained irregular, round, and oval shapes of cotognata and mostarda—not items that could be readily found in Trieste.

Cotognata, is quince paste. This seems to have gained popularity in Australia; it is particularly placed on cheese platters, but it is not a traditional accompaniment to cheese in Sicily. In fact, cotognata is a sweet with a relatively long shelf life, traditionally reserved for unexpected visitors. It is a staple in Sicilian households, ensuring that guests are always provided with something delectable to offer.

Some of you may be familiar with mostarda, but perhaps what you are thinking of is Mostarda Di Cremona, a condiment made with mustard fruits, mustard oil, and sugar. Traditionally, it is served with bollito misto di carne (a variety of boiled meats). Cremona is not located in Sicily, it is in the region of Lombardy. Mostarda Di Cremona is also an ingredient used in the stuffing to make pumpkin tortelli (large tortellini, similar to ravioli).

The Sicilian mostarda is made with prickly pears or figs and shaped in these moulds and is eaten in the same way as cotognata. This mostarda is made with grape must, wood ash, citrus zest and cornstarch. Some add almonds or pine nuts and raisins.

Others add cinnamon, nutmeg and/or cloves. The mostarda was always darker than the cotognata.

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The ingredients are cooked until the must becomes thick, almost solid. The mostarda is then poured into these type of moulds and dried in the sun. The moulds are called formelle.

Like cotognata it is generally spread with granulated sugar when inverted and exposed again to the sun until they are completely dry.

The moulds (molds in American) belonged to my great grandmother and my brother has them hanging on his wall in the kitchen.

I have fond memories every time I see them. Mine is the one below, not as ornate, but this too belonged to my great grandmother.

PRICKLY PEARS Fichi d’India and a paste called Mostarda