In Sicily, mostarda and cotognata are fruit pastes shaped into ceramic moulds called formelle.
During my childhood in Trieste, at a specific time of the year, my father and I would visit the railway station to collect a parcel sent by relatives in Ragusa, Sicily. The parcel contained irregular, round, and oval shapes of cotognata and mostarda—not items that could be readily found in Trieste.
Cotognata, is quince paste. This seems to have gained popularity in Australia; it is particularly placed on cheese platters, but it is not a traditional accompaniment to cheese in Sicily. In fact, cotognata is a sweet with a relatively long shelf life, traditionally reserved for unexpected visitors. It is a staple in Sicilian households, ensuring that guests are always provided with something delectable to offer.
Some of you may be familiar with mostarda, but perhaps what you are thinking of is Mostarda Di Cremona, a condiment made with mustard fruits, mustard oil, and sugar. Traditionally, it is served with bollito misto di carne (a variety of boiled meats). Cremona is not located in Sicily, it is in the region of Lombardy. Mostarda Di Cremona is also an ingredient used in the stuffing to make pumpkin tortelli (large tortellini, similar to ravioli).
The Sicilian mostarda is made with prickly pears or figs and shaped in these moulds and is eaten in the same way as cotognata. This mostarda is made with grape must, wood ash, citrus zest and cornstarch. Some add almonds or pine nuts and raisins.
Others add cinnamon, nutmeg and/or cloves. The mostarda was always darker than the cotognata.
The ingredients are cooked until the must becomes thick, almost solid. The mostarda is then poured into these type of moulds and dried in the sun. The moulds are called formelle.
Like cotognata it is generally spread with granulated sugar when inverted and exposed again to the sun until they are completely dry.
The moulds (molds in American) belonged to my great grandmother and my brother has them hanging on his wall in the kitchen.
I have fond memories every time I see them. Mine is the one below, not as ornate, but this too belonged to my great grandmother.
PRICKLY PEARS Fichi d’India and a paste called Mostarda