Free-range birds are supposed to have room to roam and space to grow and therefore I may be incorrectly assuming that because they move they should not be accumulating as much fat as conventional chickens. Nevertheless, I seem to be spending more and more time removing large amounts of fat from the free-range organic chickens before I cook them.
In this recipe I used a whole chicken divided into sections – perfect for stews and braises with the bones providing great depth of flavour.
I spent my childhood in Trieste and grew up with both Sicilian and Triestan food.
I wrote a recipe for Goulash as made in Trieste in 2012. Goulash is usually made with beef or a mixture of meats but this goulash recipe is made with chicken.
Goulash is spelled gulasch in Trieste; this city in the north-eastern side of Italy was once part of the Austrian – Hungarian and had very strong links with Austria at one time.
The strong red colour is achieved by paprika; no tomatoes or other vegetables are used apart from onions. This reflects the way goulash is made in Austria whereas in other countries where goulash is popular including Hungary, goulash is augmented with other vegetables – green and red bell peppers, tomatoes and carrots are the most commonly used.
I usually make make goulash with beef and because it is lean, I sauté the meat in the oil or fat after I have softened the onions. But because this chicken had sufficient fat in the skin I sautéed it before the onions and skimmed off any unwanted fat that had been released during the sautéing.
1chicken cut into sections
2-3 onions, sliced finely
extra virgin olive oil and if you have it, about 2 tbsp. lard
2-4 bay leaves and a sprig of sage
2 tbsp. sweet paprika and 1/2-1 tbs of hot paprika
¾ cup of red or white wine and 1 tbs caraway seeds (optional, but I like to do this)
water or stock to cover the meat
salt to taste
Sauté the chicken pieces in a minuscule amount of olive oil and if you wish pour off excess fat as the chicken browns.
Remove the chicken from the pan, add more oil/lard to the pan if you wish and sauté the onions until it is golden.
Add paprika, herbs and caraway seeds and return the chicken to the pan.
Add wine and some stock (or water) and salt; cover and simmer on low heat until the meat is tender. Stir occasionally and make sure that the level of liquid is maintained.
In Trieste it is usual to accompany goulash with spatzle (spaezle in German) or polenta or knodel (dumplings made with bread, but some also make them with potatoes) .
I presented the goulash with speatzle, but I did not make it.
To make spaezle mix 2 eggs and as much flour and water it needs to make into a soft dough, leave it for about one hour wrapped in plastic wrap and then press the mixture through the holes of a colander into boiling salted water or into the boiling juice of the gulasch. (Use a colander with largish holes).
I purchased Riesa Spaetzle made in Riesa Germany. It claims to be made with fresh eggs and the best durum wheat; Riesa is a town in the district approx. 40 kilometres (25 miles) northwest of Dresden. Usually the spaezle is tossed in a little butter after it is drained.
I presented it with braised Kale. It was all very enjoyable.
RECIPE FOR GOULASH MADE WITH BEEF. Gulasch (goulash As Made in Trieste)
2 thoughts on “CHICKEN GOULASH (Gulasch di pollo from Trieste)”
Grazie per la ricetta! I love finding recipes from the Trieste area. I consider myself a Isolina or Triestina :-). You are so right about chickens. I find many recipes calling for 3 to 3 1/2 pound chickens — good luck on that. Instead what I find here is miniature turkeys. The chickens now are all over 4 pounds. I haven’t made goulash but I will look forward to trying your recipe.
Certe volte non so se sono triestina o siciliana. Mi piacciono tutte e due cucine- quella siciana e quella triestina – e come sai, sono molto diverse.