Alchermes (or Alkermes) is the iconic Italian liqueur traditionally used to make Zuppa Inglese, Italy’s answer to the classic English trifle. This vibrant, red Florentine liqueur has a long and fascinating history, and for many Italians its flavour is inseparably linked to one of the country’s most beloved desserts.
Zuppa Inglese and Its Origins
Just as trifle remains a nostalgic favourite in English kitchens, Zuppa Inglese has never gone out of style in parts of Italy. Recently, while enjoying a beautifully made trifle with friends, I was surprised to discover that many seasoned travellers at the table had never tasted its Italian counterpart.
Literally translated as “English soup,” Zuppa Inglese layers sponge biscuits, crema pasticcera (crème anglaise) and liqueur. It is believed to have developed in the late 18th and 19th centuries, possibly introduced by wealthy English visitors living in Italy. The “soup” reference may describe the moist, soaked texture—or may come from the verb inzuppare, meaning “to soak.” Instead of jelly or jam, Italians added something far more characterful: the liqueur Alchermes.
The Story of Alchermes
Alchermes is a strong, ruby-red liqueur originally associated with the Medici family.
The modern Alchermes is likely to be the development of an eighth century tonic which as well as rose-water, cinnamon, sugar and honey, was said to contain ground pearls, leaf gold, raw silk, musk, ambergris (produced in the digestive of system of sperm whales and used in perfumes).
The modern version is simpler but still intensely aromatic, defined by spices, citrus peel and floral notes.
When I was growing up in Trieste in the late 1950s, Zuppa Inglese was a fashionable dessert in many restaurants. Like most Italian families, we rarely baked sweets at home—desserts were purchased from a trusted pasticceria. When we moved to Australia, my mother began making Zuppa Inglese for special occasions, and the tradition has happily continued in my own kitchen.
Making Alchermes at Home
For years Alchermes was difficult to find in Australia. My mother and I substituted Maraschino, which worked well enough, but lacked the intensity of the real thing. Eventually, in the 1980s, I began making my own liqueur using methods similar to Sicilian rosoliu, a traditional homemade infusion dating back to the 15th century.
In Sicily, the ingredients are steeped in alcohol before being sweetened with sugar syrup. My aunt, zia Niluzza, is a master rosoliu maker, and I follow much the same process.
As a Sicilian saying goes:
“Quannu ‘na cosa piaci, nun fa dannu.”
When one likes something, it can’t do any harm.
In Italy, pure grain alcohol is readily available, but in Australia I make Alchermes using vodka or grappa. The quantities below are approximate, as I rarely measure spices precisely.
Homemade Alchermes Recipe
INGREDIENTS
- 700ml bottle vodka or grappa (use around two-thirds)
- 3 cinnamon sticks
- Peel of 1 orange
- 1 heaped tablespoon each of fennel, cardamom, coriander and cloves, lightly crushed
- 1 tablespoon mace or nutmeg
- ½ vanilla bean or a generous pinch of saffron
- ½ teaspoon cochineal, or more to colour
- 1 tablespoon rosewater
- 500g sugar
- 1 litre boiling water
PROCESS
- Place the alcohol and all aromatics except cochineal and rosewater into a wide-mouth jar and seal.
- Store in a cool, dark place for at least 14 days.
- Dissolve sugar in the hot water and cool.
- Add cochineal and rosewater to the syrup.
- Pour the syrup into the steeped alcohol.
- Strain through cheesecloth.
- Bottle and seal. It keeps indefinitely.
Alchermes is available in some specialty wine shops, but at certain times, I do still like to make my own.
Homemade Alchermes won’t be as brilliant in colour as commercial versions, but the complexity of flavour is incomparable. You can add more Cochineal if you prefer a deeper colour.
Zuppa Inglese continues to be glorified in my present household.
For Christmas time celebrations, I am often asked to make and bring a trifle. I of course make a Zuppa Inglese and am often nervous about presenting this variation. But I needn’t worry – is it the Alchermes that does it, and keeps everyone happy.
Great for Birthday celebrations as well.
See: How to make Zuppa Inglese, a famous Italian Dessert.