Gelatina di Maiale: Traditional Sicilian Pork Brawn from Ragusa and Modica
Gelatina di Maiale — Sicilian pork brawn — is a beloved specialty throughout south-eastern Sicily, especially around the attractive historic Baroque towns –Ragusa, Modica and Chiaramonte Gulfi. Whenever I visit my father’s relatives in Ragusa, this dish appears in butcher shops, local markets, and on family tables. Rustic, fragrant and full of character, it showcases the region’s tradition of making the most of every part of the animal.
What Is Gelatina di Maiale?
This is a gelatinous terrine made by slowly simmering pork head, tongue, feet and lean meat until the broth becomes naturally thick and rich. Once cooled, the broth sets into a firm, fragrant jelly that encases shredded pieces of meat.
In Sicily, it’s commonly served as antipasto, but it also makes a refreshing summer main.
A Taste of Ragusa, Modica and Chiaramonte Gulfi
Ragusa and Modica are two of Sicily’s most atmospheric Baroque towns. Their golden stone buildings, dramatic hills and rich culinary traditions make them unforgettable.
In nearby Chiaramonte Gulfi, Gelatina di Maiale (also called Zuzzu) is especially popular — a dish rooted in farmhouse cooking, where pork, citrus and vinegar combine to create something refreshing yet deeply savoury.
In Gelatina di maiale the pork’s head provides the gelatinous component. Usually the tongue is included in the head and this adds texture and extra flavour.
Meat also needs to be included and apart from half of a pig’s head, lean pork (cut into large pieces) and pig’s feet.
Over time, I have adapted this recipe and I include bay leaves and peppercorns to the mix.
Great as an antipasto or as a main, especially in summer. Gelatina is sold by most butchers in southeastern Sicily.
INGREDIENTS
- ½ pig’s head (with tongue, for extra texture and flavour)
- 1.5 kg lean pork, cut into large pieces
- 4 pig’s feet
- Bay leaves
- Whole peppercorns
- ½ cup white vinegar
- Juice of 2 lemons
PROCESS
1. Simmer the Meats
Place the pig’s head, lean pork and pig’s feet into a large pot. Add bay leaves and peppercorns. Cover with water and bring to a gentle boil.
Simmer for about 3 hours, or until the meat falls easily from the bones.
2. Rest Overnight
Turn off the heat and allow the pot to cool. Leave it to rest in the fridge overnight — this helps the broth begin to set.
3. Prepare the Stock
Remove the solidified meat and separate it from the jelly. Add the vinegar and lemon juice to the remaining broth.
Simmer and reduce the liquid to one-third of its original volume.
4. Shred and Assemble
Remove all bones and shred the meat coarsely, not too fine.
Line a terrine with bay leaves, pack in the meat, and pour over the cooled, reduced stock.
5. Chill and Set
Cool completely. As it sets, any fat will rise to the top — scrape this off once cold. The layer of fat actually helps seal the terrine.
Serving Suggestions
Gelatina di Maiale is excellent:
• as an antipasto, with crusty bread or pickled vegetables
• as a summer main, served cold with salads
• alongside Sicilian olives, capers and lemon wedg
Making ZUZZU, also Called Gelatina di Maiale, podcast and recipe:
SBS The Ugly Ducklings of Italian Cuisine (Scarrafoni in Cucina)
The Ugly Ducklings in Italian Cuisine (Scarrafoni in cucina)