Where would Sicilian food be without fish, especially the humble sardine ?
Sicily is an island—and a Catholic one at that—where people were traditionally required to fast and abstain from meat on certain days, especially during Lent and on Fridays. While modern Catholic rules have relaxed, Sicilians have never really let go of their love of fish. It’s simply part of who they are.
One humble hero of the Sicilian table is the sardine. Still relatively cheap and abundant in Sicily, it’s a staple in markets and kitchens alike. The photo below was taken in the vibrant Palermo market in December 2008—at the time, 4 euros equated to around $8 Australian.
You simply cannot go to Sicily and not eat Pasta con le Sarde, a celebrated dish that varies regionally, though the most iconic version comes from Palermo. It’s made with wild fennel, pine nuts, saffron, and currants—a heady, sweet-savoury combination that sings of the island’s Arabic influence.
Sardines, however, are more than just a pasta ingredient. They’re also sensational grilled on the BBQ or baked in the oven. But in Sicily, there’s another, lesser-known way to enjoy them: crude e conzate, which translates to raw and dressed in the local dialect (crude e condite in standard Italian). While referred to as raw, the fish is actually “cooked” in lemon juice, much like a ceviche. The result is a dish that’s fresh, zesty, and perfect as an antipasto.
Sardines are also a sustainable choice—ideal for those who care about where their food comes from. And marinating them like this mellows their strong flavour, making them a surprise favourite even among those who usually shy away from oily fish.
I remember when I first moved to Australia, you simply couldn’t buy sardines. Like squid, they were mostly used as bait. But now, they’ve made their way onto menus and into markets, and it’s wonderful to see them appreciated.
To make this dish, freshness is everything. The sardines must be absolutely fresh—cleaned, filleted, and free of the head, backbone, and innards. It’s best to start your preparation a day in advance.
Marinated Sardines (Crude e Conzate)
A traditional Sicilian antipasto
Ingredients
(Serves 2–6 as an antipasto)
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Fresh sardines, cleaned and filleted (1–3 per person)
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Juice of 3–4 lemons
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3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
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¾ cup fresh parsley and oregano, finely chopped
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Extra virgin olive oil
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Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Marinate
Arrange the sardine fillets in a single layer on a wide plate or shallow dish. Pour the lemon juice over them—enough to just cover the fish.
Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 to 6 hours, until the flesh turns pale and opaque.
Drain
Once “cooked” by the lemon, drain the fillets well using a colander, then briefly pat dry with paper towel. Discard the lemon juice—it’s done its job.
Dress
Lay the sardines out in a clean, single layer on a large serving plate. Sprinkle over the chopped garlic, herbs, salt, and pepper. Drizzle generously with good extra virgin olive oil.
Rest & Serve
Cover again with plastic wrap and refrigerate for another hour to let the flavours meld. Serve chilled or at room temperature, ideally with crusty bread and a glass of dry white wine -.