Ground almonds | All Things Sicilian and more

It is spring in Melbourne, and artichokes (carciofi) and asparagus (asparagi) are at their seasonal best. This is the time of year when market stalls are filled with fresh, tender produce, making it the perfect opportunity to enjoy these two classic Mediterranean vegetables. Their delicate flavours capture the freshness of spring and feature prominently in many Italian, including Sicilian, kitchens.

While artichokes in large bunches with long stems are not as common in Australia, short stemmed artichokes have become more prevalent in larger Australian cities. I have even observed some in supermarkets, although they are not always fresh and crisp.

Last year I was able to buy artichokes from a grower in Werribee – not far from Melbourne. Produce bought from growers is always more fragrant and it lasts for a longer time in the fridge.

Artichokes in Werribee Victoria, so fresh and in various sizes

Asparagus is one of the highlights of spring in Melbourne. The slender green spears, traditionally sold in bunches, remain the most common, but the thicker varieties—sold by weight—have become increasingly popular. Available in both green and white, these robust spears are ideal for char-grilling, a cooking method that enhances their natural sweetness and has become a favourite in contemporary restaurants and home kitchens alike.

Bunches of wild artichokes purchased in Italy

In Australia—or at least in Melbourne—we have yet to embrace the wild asparagus tradition that is so deeply rooted in Italy (see photos above and below). Wild asparagus (asparagi di bosco), with its slender stems and distinctive, slightly bitter flavour, is highly prized throughout the country. Each spring, Italians head into the countryside to forage for it, and the seasonal harvest is eagerly anticipated. It is most often cooked simply in omelettes, risottos, pasta dishes or lightly dressed with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice, allowing its unique flavour to shine.

I frequently cook asparagus and artichokes together. For a gluten-free friend, I stuffed the artichokes with a paste of almond meal, parsley, garlic and one egg. I braised them in stock and white wine.

Artichokes ready for stuffing with almond meal instead of breadcrumbs for a gluten free friend

I used whole potatoes to support the artichokes in an upright position. I then added asparagus a few minutes before I was ready to present the artichokes.

Artichokes cooked upright with potatoes and these absorb the flavour of the artichoke and stock

Although artichokes can be cooked in various ways I mostly liked them stuffed. as well as using potatoes and asparagus, I also like to add broad beans or peas at times. at times I have also added cooked cannellini.

Artichokes stripped of their outer leaves and cooked with beans

Stripped of their tough outer leaves artichokes are perfect for eating with just a fork and a knife.

I have written many recipes for artichokes and asparagus on my blog… Use the search button and type in ‘artichokes’ if you wish to find how to clean artichokes and recipes. here are just a few:

ASPARAGI DI BOSCO and FRITTATINA (Wild Asparagus continued, and Frittata)

WILD ASPARAGUS IN SICILY AND TUNIS (ASPARAGI SELVATICI)

I LOVE ARTICHOKES

Melbourne; August: Winter Artichokes in risotto and stuffed

A QUICK PASTA DISH for Spring: artichokes, asparagus, peas

This photo was taken in Erice, one of Sicily’s most precipitous fortress towns that dates back to the Romans. It is said that from Erice, the Romans could see the ships in the harbour of Carthage. (Those of you who read my blog will know that my laptop was stolen in Paris about three weeks ago). I have lost most of my current photographs of Sicily because they had been downloaded onto the laptop. This is one of the few remaining photos still in the camera.

Anyone who has been to Sicily is almost certain to have seen displays of marzipan fruit like this one. Sicilians are the masters of marzipan. Real marzipan is made by cooking a strong syrup of sugar and water and then adding freshly ground almonds. Almond extract enhances the taste. The mixture is kneaded till smooth (like bread dough) and then shaped.

Seeing this array of marzipan in Erice reminded me that I had made marzipan to decorate a cassata I made about three months ago. Marzipan keeps. I wrap any left over marzipan in plastic wrap and store it in the fridge. I have just checked the left-over marzipan from the cassata, and it is still there – fresh and ready to be use.

This recipe is for the easier, non-traditional, uncooked marzipan.

INGREDIENTS
almonds ground, 500 g – blanched and ground very fine
icing sugar 500g
vanilla bean paste, to taste
egg whites, 2
salt, a pinch

In a bowl whisk the egg whites with the salt until they are frothy. Whisk in the vanilla. Gradually stir in the almonds and the sugar, kneading as you go to form a smooth, pliable dough. Wrap tightly in foil or in a plastic bag or in an airtight container in the fridge.

MARZIPAN FRUITS

Make at least 2 days ahead. The marzipan can be made up to 8 weeks in advance.

marzipan paste (at room temperature)
food colouring, for decorating
cloves, for decorating
icing sugar, to coat hands

Work with small pieces of marzipan at a time and keep the remaining marzipan covered tightly. Form the marzipan into a smooth ball by rolling it between the palms of your hands, and mould it gently into the desired shape. Wiping your hands occasionally with a damp cloth and using a little icing sugar to coat your palms (like you do with flour) helps stop it sticking.

If you wish to make the marzipan look like citrus fruit or strawberries roll it over a fine grater or sieve. Let the marzipan dry on sheets of foil overnight.

Use small brushes dipped in the food colour to achieve the desired colours and shadings. You may need a second coat of colour but let the first coat dry. Use cloves to form the blossom end of fruits such as apples and pears.

Let the marzipan dry uncovered for one day, and once again with a soft brush add any fine details.

See: CASSATA ( Post no. 2) Calls for a celebration!!!

Photo below shows one of the many little lanes in Erice.

Feature photo is of marzipan fruit made by Libby, a friend in Adelaide.

Tag: Ground almonds

ASPARAGUS and ARTICHOKES

Like this:

MARZAPANE also called Pasta Reale (Marzipan)

Like this: