PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo. Cooked at Slow Food Festival Melbourne

PASTA CON LE SARDE, an iconic Sicilian recipe from Palermo and it was the dish I prepared as a cooking presentation for the Slow Fish Festival Melbourne – Save Our Seafood, held in Spotswood–Kingsville.

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Pasta Con Le Sarde. The pasta is BICATINI.

Pasta con le Sarde at the Slow Fish Festival Melbourne

To everyone who attended this successful event, thank you for your interest and enthusiasm. As promised, here is an updated version of the recipe and some additional information about the ingredients that make this classic Sicilian pasta so distinctive.

Pasta con le Sarde is one of Sicily’s most celebrated seafood dishes. Originating in Palermo, it combines fresh sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts, currants, saffron and breadcrumbs in a harmonious balance of sweet and savoury flavours. It is a dish that reflects Sicily’s layered culinary history, shaped by Arab, Mediterranean and local traditions.

For those interested in the recipe itself, I have previously published two versions:

  • Pasta con le Sarde – the traditional Palermo-style version with wild fennel, pine nuts and currants.
  • Pasta con le Sarde al Forno – the baked version, a favourite for special occasions and family gatherings.
The Importance of Wild Fennel

Wild fennel (finocchietto selvatico) is one of the defining ingredients of Pasta con le Sarde. Its delicate aniseed flavour perfumes both the sauce and the cooking water used for the pasta.

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Wild fennel plant.

In Sicily, wild fennel grows abundantly in the countryside and along roadsides during spring.

Traditionally, cooks harvest the tender shoots, boil them, and then use both the fennel and the aromatic cooking liquid in the preparation of the dish.

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Packing wild fennel for the winter season – used to flavour the pasta water.

To preserve its flavour for use throughout the year, Sicilians often freeze the cooked fennel. or dry the seeds.

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Wild fennel shoots.

They also dry the seeds.

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Extra flavour with sachet of fennel seeds. It can be removed when you also remove the boiled wild fennel.
Wild Fennel in Sicilian Markets

During the fennel season, bunches of freshly harvested wild fennel are sold in markets throughout Sicily.

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Wild fennel sold in bunches at Catania Market.

Whether in Palermo, Catania or smaller country towns, the sight of market stalls overflowing with fennel is a reminder of the strong connection between Sicilian cooking and seasonal produce.

The fragrance alone is enough to evoke memories of traditional home cooking.

As promised, here is an update of the recipe Pasta con le Sarde I cooked at this event.

A Dish That Tells Sicily’s Story

Pasta con le Sarde is much more than a pasta dish. It reflects Sicily’s history and cultural influences.

The combination of sardines, wild fennel, currants and pine nuts illustrates the Arab contribution to Sicilian cuisine, while the use of fresh local seafood speaks of the island’s enduring relationship with the Mediterranean Sea.

Like many traditional dishes, it is a recipe that varies from family to family, yet remains unmistakably Sicilian.

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Flavouring the pasta water and the boiled wild fennel.

From Pasta to Timballo

One of the pleasures of Pasta con le Sarde is that leftovers can be transformed into another classic Sicilian dish: timballo di pasta.

The pasta is layered or baked in a mould and served as a substantial second meal. In many Sicilian households, yesterday’s pasta often becomes today’s timballo.

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Timballo, made with left over Pasta con Sarde
Pasta con le Sarde and The Leopard

During my presentation, I also referred to the famous Sicilian novel The Leopard by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa.

The novel, later adapted into the acclaimed film The Leopard by Luchino Visconti, captures the elegance, complexity and changing social landscape of nineteenth-century Sicily.

Like Pasta con le Sarde itself, the story is deeply rooted in Sicilian identity and tradition.

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SICILIAN PLATE -Alessi 

You will need a plate to serve it and this is what I used.

It is an Alessi Plate ( not THE Alessi, the Sicilian Alessi) They use old stencils, colours and images from the past to decorate their plates. I bought this in  the premier pottery town in Sicily – Caltagirone. It is located in central Sicily between Catania and Ragusa,

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PASTA CON LE SARDE (Pasta with sardines, from Palermo, made with fennel, pine nuts and currants)

PASTA CON SARDE – the baked version, Palermo, Sicily

 

SICILIAN SEAFOOD COOKING

Recipe in Sicilian Seafood Cooking, Tim White from Books For Cooks (Melbourne) may have a couple of this book left for sale in his store.

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POLPETTONE (in Sicilian purpittuni – a meat loaf on platter by Giacomo Alessi of Caltagirone)

I asked my butcher to mince some very lean beef for me – I was going to have it as steak tartare. I did not get around to using it and made a polpettone (a large meat ball/ loaf, called a purpittuni in Sicilian).

In previous posts I have written about polpette (meatballs) and braciole (meat rolled around a stuffing), and although making a polpettone is very similar to these recipes it gives me an opportunity to get a photo – visuals  are helpful when cooking a recipe.

In this polpettone, I have placed some stuffing in the centre, as one would do when making a farsumagru (a large, thinly pounded steak of young beef, rolled around a stuffing) and this time I have used a few slices of cooked ham, small bits of pecorino and hard-boiled eggs. In Italy, cooked ham is called prosciutto and what we call prosciutto in Australia is known as prosciutto crudo (raw ham).

The older, Sicilian recipes rarely include wine in cooking (vinegar, yes) so the wine is optional.

I need to mention the platter. It is one of Giacomo Alessi’s ceramiche (ceramics, just I case you have not guessed).

I bought my very first in Caltagirone, Sicily’s most important centre for ceramics and where Alessi’s pottery is based. He has since established other outlets; I bought the one in the photo in Erice (central Sicily) last year and I purchased another in Palermo.

I love his ceramics, especially the ones with the bright green border; these are based on traditional and very old designs.

I am attracted to his use of strong colours, the ornamentation and images he uses, so evocative of the past. All my cousins and their offspring have the very old, original platters scattered around their homes (not Alessi’s, but he has reproduced and revived the old designs). They had belonged to Rosa, my paternal grandmother (Ragusa), but unfortunately when they were distributed within the family I was out of sight and out of mind. Apparently, one of the many uses for these platters was to dry conserva (rich tomato paste), which was placed to dry in the hot, Sicilian sun.

For the recipe complete with photos, see

HOW TO MAKE A POLPETTONE (in Sicilian Purpittuni or

Purpittuni)

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