Affogato is an Italian term meaning ‘drowned’ or ‘smothered’. In this recipe, the cauliflower is effectively ‘drowned’ in red wine and ‘smothered’ by compression.
My grandmother Maria was born in Catania and this was one of her ways of cooking cauliflower – It is called CAVOLOFIORE AFFOGATO and VRUOCCULI AFFUCATI in Sicilian.
Although the coloured cauliflower or broccoli can also be used for this recipe, I prefer the white cauliflower because it acquires a rose tint when cooked with red wine. The yellow one is also suitable and even more dramatic in colour.
To compress the cauliflower layers, assemble the ingredients, cover them with a circular piece of baking paper, place an oven-safe plate on top, and then add a weight (as shown in the photo). I used my stone mortar, at other times I have used a smaller saucepan partly filled with liquid.
The cauliflower is cooked slowly until all the liquid evaporates and then it can be turned out and sliced like a cake. try to cut the cauliflower horizontally into layers if you can, however, the pecorino usually performs the function of keeping the layers together.
I place a circle of baking paper at the bottom of the pan to ensure that the “cake”( tortino in Italian) does not stick to the bottom or you may also like to use a non- stick saucepan as I often do. Many recipes add water as the cauliflower is cooking to prevent it from burning, but if you cook it on very gentle heat, you have added wine and used a good quality saucepan with a heavy base, adding water may not be necessary.
VRUOCCULI AFFUCATI are especially suitable as an accompaniment to a strong tasting dish. Usually it is presented at room temperature and even cold the left over cauliflower is particularly satisfying as a stuffing for a panino.
INGREDIENTS
PROCESSES
- Place some olive oil in a deep saucepan (the ingredients are layered). Line with baking paper if you wish.
- Add a layer of the cauliflower.Top with the pecorino cheese, anchovies, ground pepper and onion slices (and olives if you wish). The ingredients are pretty salty so you may not wish to add salt.
- Repeat with another two layers of the cauliflower and the other ingredients. Drizzle more oil on top each layer. Make the top layer just cauliflower.
- Press down the layers with your hands.Top with more oil and add the wine.
- Cover the contents first with either a piece of baking paper or foil cut to size and slightly loose. Put a weight on the top so as to keep all of the layers compressed (see above). There should e a gap around the weight and the saucepan to allow the steam to escape. Add little bit of water if necessary.
- Cook on very slow heat for about 30-40 minutes and when the liquid has evaporated, you should also hear the cauliflower sizzle in the oil.
Everything cooks down, the anchovies and the cheese melt right down, the onion just becomes an almost invisible part of the same dish.
My brother cooked his with broccoli and wrote me an email:
It turned out great.
The ingredients were all raw when placed into the pan.
A little thinly sliced onion first, followed by broccoli, chopped anchovies, chopped olives, pecorino cheese, a little more onion, ground pepper, then more broccoli on top. No further added salt.
Add a good dash of oil and 3/4 glass of red wine. Cover with baking paper and weigh down with a plate with weight on top.
I cooked it slowly for about I hour until all liquid evaporated. It was not mushy, and it held the shape when cut.
I hope yours cooks to your satisfaction.
Marisa
Drowned in red wine: obviously posted last Thurday in preparation for the AFL draw.