Shellfish like mussels, oysters, and clams stand out as excellent examples of environmentally friendly, sustainable seafood, offering nutritious, delicious meals that also help protect our oceans.
When we choose sustainable seafood, we make a decision that makes an impact far beyond our plate. Shellfish like mussels, oysters, and clams are not only delicious—they’re also some of the most sustainable sources of protein on the planet. By understanding how these ocean creatures are farmed and harvested, we can enjoy their rich flavours while helping protect marine ecosystems for generations to come.
In this post I have written about the sustainability of mussels and shellfish in Australia and Italy and have included a recipe from my book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking , called RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels.
The photo is by Graeme Gillies, food stylist is Fiona Rigg.

Sustainability of Mussels:
Mussels are one of the most sustainable seafood choices available. They are filter feeders, meaning they naturally clean the water by removing excess nutrients and improving marine ecosystems as they grow. Mussel farming requires no feed, antibiotics, or fertilizers—just clean ocean water and space to attach—making their carbon footprint incredibly low compared to other forms of aquaculture. In fact, mussel farms often enhance biodiversity by creating habitats for small fish and marine life. Choosing sustainably farmed mussels supports healthy oceans and promotes environmentally responsible seafood consumption.
Sustainability of Shellfish:
Shellfish such as oysters, clams, and scallops also play a vital role in marine sustainability. Like mussels, they filter and purify seawater, improving coastal water quality while producing protein-rich food with minimal environmental impact. Shellfish farms typically use natural growing methods that require no added feed or chemicals, and they can even help restore damaged marine habitats. Supporting sustainable shellfish industries not only helps maintain balanced ecosystems but also ensures future generations can enjoy nutritious seafood without depleting ocean resources.
MUSSELS
Enjoy a mussel or two – glossy black shells, the faint scent of the sea and one of the ocean’s simplest pleasures – affordable, sustainable, and bursting with flavour. Their magic lies in their simplicity: they cook in minutes, just until their shells open, releasing their own briny liquor that becomes the base for a deeply aromatic broth.
I always enjoy watching guests pry open the shells to reveal the plump, sweet flesh within. Beyond their taste, mussels are among the most environmentally responsible seafood options. They require no feed, thrive naturally in clean waters, and even improve water quality as they grow.

Sustainability of Mussels In Australia
The primary species farmed in Australia is the Blue Mussel, harvested sustainably from the pristine southern waters of South Australia, Tasmania, and Victoria. Valued for its delicate sweetness and versatility, the Blue Mussel is a standout example of responsible aquaculture.
As natural filter-feeders, mussels draw nutrients directly from the water, requiring no additional feed or chemicals — giving them an exceptionally low environmental footprint compared to fed aquaculture. In fact, Australian Blue Mussels are considered one of the most sustainably farmed seafoods in the world.
Mussels are typically grown using suspended culture techniques. Baby mussels, or spat, attach themselves to ropes or socks suspended from floating lines or buoys. Over 12–18 months, they grow plump and flavourful in sheltered, clean sea waters.
In Victoria’s Port Phillip Bay, thousands of mussels dangle beneath the surface, nourished by the cool, nutrient-rich currents until harvest. Sea Bounty Mussels, one of the region’s leading producers, farms approximately 1,000 tonnes annually and is certified organic — a shining example of how local aquaculture can blend sustainability and quality.
Australia’s mussel story is one of balance — local flavour, clean waters, and growing global recognition.
Mussels in Victoria
Living in Melbourne, I’ve become particularly fascinated by Victoria’s growing mussel industry — a story of innovation, sustainability, and local pride.
In 2023/24, Victoria produced around 1,700 tonnes of mussels, valued at approximately AU$6 million.
The Victorian Government recently invested AU$1.25 million to open 290 hectares of new aquaculture reserve waters, expected to boost production by around 700 tonnes.
Australia’s productivity growth is reflected in its evolving relationship with mussels, a humble seafood that’s making its mark on both the culinary scene and policy-making.
Environmental and Regulatory Considerations for Mussels
While mussel farming is generally regarded as sustainable, it’s not without challenges. Careful site selection and regulation are essential to avoid disrupting local ecosystems.
For example, in New South Wales, concerns have arisen about mussel larvae and invasive species spreading near conservation areas, such as the Jervis Bay Marine Park. These examples highlight the importance of thoughtful management to ensure mussel farming remains a net positive for marine environments.
Mussels in Italy: Tradition Meets Taste
Mussels, known as cozze, have long been a culinary and cultural staple in Italy. The country ranks among Europe’s largest producers of Mediterranean Mussels accounting for up to two-thirds of EU production.
According to Italy’s Multi-annual National Strategic Plans for Aquaculture (2021–2030), mussel farming dominates much of the country’s shellfish industry particularly in regions such as Emilia-Romagna Veneto and the Po Delta.
Sustainability of Mussels in Italy
While Italian mussel farming is relatively low-impact environmental considerations remain. The farming system also faces modern sustainability questions including plastic loss at sea, boat fuel usage and sediment build-up under farms.
Nonetheless mussels provide a valuable ecosystem service. In nutrient-rich waters they help remove nitrogen and phosphorus acting as natural filters that maintain ecological balance.
SHELLFISH SUSTAINABILITY IN AUSTRALIA AND ITALY

While Australian farms emphasise organic certification and clean waters Italian farms rely on long-tradition coastal heritage and high-volume production.
As consumers become more aware of how their food choices impact the planet, seafood sustainability has become an important focus. Mussels and other shellfish stand out as excellent examples of environmentally friendly seafood, offering nutritious, delicious meals that also help protect our oceans.
Mussels in Cuisine
Mussels are a versatile and delicious seafood celebrated in kitchens worldwide.
Due to Australia’s diverse food cultures, mussels are often prepared simply steamed with white wine, garlic and herbs. They are commonly served in pasta dishes or paella. Some recipes involve grilling them to open them, which is less common. A popular preparation is to steam them in coconut milk with lemongrass, chilli and fragrant herbs and spices.
Mussels are a staple ingredient in Italian cuisine, featured in a wide variety of dishes including pasta, risotto, stuffed with breadcrumbs and in seafood and fish soups. Their briny juices are used to enhance the many versions of wet mussel dishes with various aromatic herbal sauces. This is also the popular way that mussels are featured in other European cuisine.
In European cultures such as France, Greece and Spain, mussels are a prominent feature of culinary traditions, particularly in wet dishes served with rich herbal and fragrant sauces.
Shellfish in Cuisine
Shellfish hold an important place in both Australian and Italian cuisines, though they are celebrated in distinct ways. In Australia, fresh local shellfish such as oysters, mussels, and scallops are often enjoyed simply—grilled, steamed, or served raw to highlight their clean, ocean-fresh flavour.
Italian cuisine, on the other hand, weaves shellfish into regional dishes that showcase centuries of coastal tradition, from spaghetti alle vongole to seafood risottos and mixed fritto di mare. In both countries, shellfish embody the connection between coastal living, fresh ingredients, and a deep respect for the sea.

RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels
This Sicilian-inspired shellfish recipe is a celebration of the sea—fresh, vibrant, and deeply rooted in both tradition and sustainability. It is a recipe in my book called Sicilian Seafood Cooking. (Angels by PONTORMO)
Sicily is an island and this recipe draws on the island’s rich coastal heritage, it brings together the pure flavours of sustainably sourced shellfish with the bright, sun-soaked ingredients that define Sicilian cuisine – garlic, olive oil, and a touch of chilli.
Every element of this dish reflects respect for the ocean and the land, showcasing how responsible seafood choices can deliver both environmental benefits and unforgettable Mediterranean flavour. It’s a recipe that tastes as good as it feels—simple, elegant, and sustainably delicious.
Interesting Observations in Sicilian Cooking
In Sicilian cooking, grated cheese is used sparingly with seafood—if at all—but when it is, it’s done with intention. Rather than overpowering the delicate flavours of the sea, a light dusting of pecorino or aged ricotta is used to add a touch of richness and depth, reflecting the island’s bold yet balanced approach to flavour.
In Sicily, rice was traditionally cooked in a simpler, more rustic way—boiled or baked rather than stirred continuously as in northern Italian risotto. This method reflects the island’s practical, resourceful cooking style, where rice absorbed the flavours of local ingredients without the need for the labor-intensive, creamy texture typical of risotto.

Recipe: RISO CON GLI ANGELI, Rice with angels
Ingredients
400g cockles
400g mussels
3 cups arborio, carnaroli or vialone rice
3 cloves garlic, chopped
½ cup finely cut parsley
¾–1 cup extra virgin olive oil
200g (7oz) prawns, shelled and de-veined, cut into pieces; some left whole
200g (7oz) squid (small with tentacles), cut into slices
100g (3½oz) of one or a mixture of: crabs, lobster, Moreton bay bugs, scallops (optional)
grated pecorino
salt and red chilli flakes to taste
Method
Clean the cockles and mussels (see pages 84 and 87 in my book: Sicilian Seafood Cooking). Steam in a covered frying pan coated with a little oil. Once opened, shell them, but reserve some mussels in their shells. Cut up the flesh and save the juice.
While you are preparing the seafood, cook the rice (add the rice to plenty of rapidly boiling, salted water). Drain and place in serving bowl.
In a wide pan, sauté the garlic and parsley in extra virgin olive oil. Add prawns, squid (and any other seafood) and season. Stir for a few minutes, then add the clam juice. Toss for a few minutes without reducing the liquid.
Add mussels and cockles (shelled and unshelled) and heat through.
Mix the seafood with the rice. Arrange some mussels in their shells on top to look like angels with open wings. Serve with grated cheese.
MUSSELS IN TRIESTE and Mussel recipes
SPAGHETTINI E COZZE; Spaghettini with mussels
ZUPPA DI COZZE SGUSCIATE: A thick soup made with Mussel Meat
SPAGHETTI WITH CRAYFISH OR CRAB (Spaghetti con Aragosta o Granco)








































I was recently invited to join the morning program on SBS Italian Radio Live, where I had the pleasure of discussing winter vegetables with hosts Massimiliano Gugole, who is based in Sydney and Andrea Pagani is based in Melbourne.












































